Newsletter Item  [ back ]
Date: 2009-04-04 13:35:36
Issue #11 - April '09


Jonathan E Dunn

 

profile    services    testimonials   properties for sale    about corfu     contact us




Welcome to our Newsletter of April 2009
covering the famous Corfiot Easter Celebrations

 


For our April Newsletter we decided to concentrate on the Corfiot Easter as we had so many positive comments from you last year! So below you will find anything you need to know regarding the unique celebrations that last more than 12 days full of tradition, devoutness, music and festivities.

A Property Newsflash will follow shortly 

 

Kalo Pascha!

 

Easter Reflections

 

The Corfiot Easter

 The Greeks call Easter Lambri which means bright, expressing in this way the symbolic spiritual brightness of the Easter Sunday. After a long seven-week period devoted to fasting and abstinence from any kind of feast, comes Easter a day of happiness and joy.

Corfu is famous for it’s magnificent Easter celebrations. The Western Civilization’s influences are clearly visible even in this mainly Greek-Orthodox festivity. Thousands of Greek and foreign visitors gather every year to experience the unforgettable rich Corfiot history combined with the traditional religious customs in the romantic environment of Corfu Town, which is recognised as a  world heritage monument by Unesco.  During this period many elements are interweaved harmoniously together:  the Christian faith, pagan traditions, the powerful presence of Saint Spyridon, the Roman Catholic community, the Venetian influence, the music of the philharmonic bands, genuine Corfiot humor and of course the natural atmosphere of spring.
The continuity of the Corfiot heritage is visible with Koro (chorus) who following the Epitaph on Good Friday are singing  the most beautiful hymn, with Skolaes (four sided flags), Flamboura (old Byzantine flags), Tortses (large candles), the Venetian purple lanterns and the “Marcia Funebre played by the Philharmonic Orchestras. The Holy week is characterized by its church services and religious processions.

 

Lazarus Saturday April 11th

On Saturday morning at 11:00 in the historical centre of the Old Town you can hear the Lazarus Carrols by different choirs but for a more traditional experience you must go to the village of Episkepsi. There the village choir starts at 20:30 from the main square, singing the Carrols walking around the village with the residents and the visitors following them. Every neighbourhood welcomes them with fasting delicacies and Corfiot house made village wine. The ceremony continues until the early morning hours. Back to Town an event is usually taking place at 13:00 at the Town Hall square organised by the cultural association “Foreas Korfiatikis Ekfrasis”.

 

Palm Sunday  April 12th

The Easter celebrations start at 11:00 in the narrow streets of the Old Town with the biggest ceremony:
the litany of the body of St. Spyridon, the patron saint of the island. This tradition goes back to 1630, to commemorate the saint’s miracle of saving the island from the plague that killed thousands of Corfiots the previous year. Windows and balconies are decorated by long, dark red pieces of fabric called “Damaska”. The tradition comes from ancient Rome and later from Istanbul where they used to hang the fabrics in honour of the Emperor. Later the custom was adopted by the Venetians who brought it to Corfu.  The procession sets off from the Saint’s church and follows the line of the old town walls, from where the Saint drove off the plague. 

Philharmonic drums

More than 15 philharmonic bands, each one with different outfit, accompany the procession, playing religionale, trionfale and funebre marches. All members of the bands are having a special cross attached to their jackets, made from palm leaf, celebrating Jesus' triumphant entry into Jerusalem. 

At midday in homes and tavernas the traditional dish of the day is served - stockfish or salted cod (bakaliaros).

 

Holy Monday - Holy Tuesday - Holy Wednesday

In the evenings all the churches in Corfu Town and around the island have a mass. Corfu has almost 1,000 churches so it is impossible for the visitors to miss them.  Later at 21:00 different events and concerts are organised by the Municipality of Corfu in different venues in the Old Town usually at the Duomo on Holy Monday, the Palace of St.George and St. Micheal on Holy Tuesday and the Municipal Theatre on Holy Wednesday.

 

Holy Thursday April 16th

The bright dyed red eggs that are symbolic of Easter in Greece are prepared by every family on the morning of Holy Thursday after the first sound of the church bells. They use a clay pot which then brake on Holy Saturday and replace it with a new one. The red eggs then, on the Holy Sunday’s Table, become pieces of a traditional game. Each person takes an egg and challengers attempt to crack each others’ eggs. The breaking of the eggs is meant to symbolize Christ breaking from the Tomb. The person whose egg lasts the longest is assured good luck for the rest of the year. Then they stick the shell on doors or throw it into the garden to bless the harvest.

The local market is full of life as every household is preparing for the traditional Easter Saturday’s dinner and the Holy Sunday’s great lunch. All the pastry shops sell the “Kolombina” – a Venetian origin Easter cake with a red egg on top, decorated by multicoloured feathers, imitating the shape of a small pigeon – and “Fogatsa”

a big piece of sweet bread. The tradition says that both will be eaten on Easter Sunday morning dunked in milk. In the villages the housewives are waking up very early in the morning to make their own traditional Easter sweet bread roll.

Fogatsa


Today the service of the Twelve Gospels is taking place in the churches and the monasteries. At Agios Athanasios at Agros, at the Lady of Kokkinada at Lefkimmi and at any monastery that is still operating you will enjoy direct contact with the essence and soul of Holy Week. In Corfu Town the Church of Agios Ioannis (John the Baptist) celebrates with Byzantine hymns while the Monastery of Agia Evfimia beside Mon Repos has the finest tradition of services, together with the Platytera Monastery at Mandouki and Aghii Theodori in Garitsa. After the fifth gospel Jesus is hung upon the Cross and remains there until noon of Good Friday. In the Duomo – the Catholic Cathedral in the Town Hall Square twelve candles are lit which will be later extinguish one by one as the reading of each gospel is completed.  After the mass in every church young girls start the decoration of the Epitaphios, the Christ’s funeral bier. Every different bier is beautifully decorated with fresh flowers that were collected throughout the day.

At the village of Aghii Deka, the custom of ‘Trizonia’ is revived. Better known as ‘Rokanes’ – meaning ‘rattles’- the weird sound adds to the atmosphere of emotion that accompanies the Passion of Christ.

Good Friday April  17th

Good Friday is the day of the "Epitaphios"  the funeral of Christ. Since early in the morning the church bells keep ringing in a slow and sad way and all the flags are half must until the first resurrection. At noon the service of the removal of the cross nails is taking place at the churches and the crusified Jesus is carried to his bier. This event takes place in a deeply emotional atmospere under the sound of the burial bells.
Later, all over the island as all over Greece, every church brings out its own funeral bier and parades it around the parish.   
   
The Epitaph Procession  Easter flowers  The Epitaph

Every different "Epitaphios" keeps its own characteristics so that no one looks the same. The attendant of all the Philharmonic orchestras and choirs give another dimension to the occasion. As the Town prossecions are many, they start early in the afternoon to give the Philharmonic orchestras time to escort them all. Schools, scouts and groups of young children carrying bascets full of flowers - which are abundant in Corfu this time of the year - also accompany each Epitaph.

The first Epitaphios leaves the church of Pantokrator in Campiello at 14:00 and other churches follow until the last one which starts at 21:30 from the Metropolis church at the Old Port, passes Mouragia and comes to Liston where all the prossecions are meeting with thousands of people following them. Now all the orchestras and the choirs are becoming one and the outcome is just overwhelming and not to be missed.

In the village of Varypatades the custom of "Bobola" takes place. Hundreds of snail shells or "bobola" filled with oil and cotton as a wick are lit and placed on the stones where the funeral proccesion will pass, intensifying the devout atmosphere of the evening.

 

 Holy Saturday April 18th

On Holy Saturday at 06:00 in the morning the custom of "The earthquake" is carried out at the church of Virgin Mary of Strangers. It is a re-enactment of the earthquake which is described in the Godspel as the triumphal sequel after Christs' resurrection.

Later at 09:00, the Litany of St. Spyridon church takes place which includes the procession of the Epitaph of St. Spyridon as well as the sacred relics of the Saint. In 1574 the Venetians prohibited the Orthodox Church from holding their “Epitaphios” ceremony on Good Friday so ever since and until today this  procession is taking place on the morning of Holy Saturday. This is an ancient and deeply devotional event. The three best Philharmonic orchestras accompany the procession which moves rhythmically together with the music. After the litany the Saint remains at his church for veneration until Easter Tuesday.


    Waiting for the first Resurrection  The Pot Breaking  The bands are playing joyfully

At 11:00 the crowd is waiting for the First Resurrection and the ‘Pot Throwing’ custom. When the bells of all the churches in Town start ringing the locals throw hundreds of pots out of their windows, smashing them onto the streets below. This noisy custom originating with the Venetians began in the town and spread to the villages. The Venetians used to throw all their old and useless objects out of the window on January 1st each year so that the New Year might bring them new ones. The Corfiots adopted this custom and moved it to their great Easter celebration. Nowadays, instead of throwing out old crockery they people use big specially made pots (called ‘botis’), filled with water to make a louder crash. Another theory says that they fill the pots with all the bad things of last year and throw them out of their houses. Another one says that they break the pots in which they dyed the red eggs in. Anyhow, taking a piece of the broken pots is considered to bring good luck.

 

After the dropping of the clay pots the Philharmonic orchestras are marching on the streets of the Historical centre of the Old Town playing allegro marches.

At Pinia - the old commercial centre of the town - the custom of "Mastela" (washtub) has been revived. A half-barrel decorated with myrtle and ribbons is filled with water and passers-by are invited to throw coins into it for good luck. When the first resurrection bell sounds someone jumps into the barrel and collects up the money. In old times the diver was not a volunteer but an unsuspecting passer-by, thrown in against his will!

 

Easter Sunday April 19th

On Easter Sunday from 07:00 in the morning each church - just like the Epithaphios - holds its own Resurrection processions with bands, schoolchildren, scouts and choirs. At 11:00 the procession of St. Spyridon takes place and by the end of it the two oldest Philharmonic orchestras are playing joyfully at the Historical centre and at Liston. On the same day from 11:00 onwards the Naval Station of Corfu in the New Fortress is open to the public with feasts and local dancing.

 

Easter eggs

 

In Corfu the traditional menu of the Easter day used to be different from the rest of Greece as the Corfiots were eating egg-lemon soup (Avgolemono) made of 2-3 different kinds of meat. Then they had the traditional roast lamb on the spit for Easter Monday, giving that way more time to the stomach to recover after the long period of fasting. But that has changed as you can smell the roasting lamb since early on Easter mornong all around the island. Families and friends gather together around the spit taking turns in rolling the lambs, eating "meze" and drinking local wine until the lamb is ready and they all sit around the Easter table celebrating.

In the past Easter carrols were sang from door to door but nowadays the custom has become extinct.

On the same afternoon the "Service of Love" is taking place in the churches and at 18:00 two more litanies of the icon of Resurrection of Christ are taking place in Garitsa and in Potamos.

 

Easter Monday - Easter Tuesday

In most of the villages the litanies of Resurrection are taking place. The course they are following last for hours and after passing through villages and fields ends at the main square where a celebration feast (panegyri) is taking place with everyone participating. Around the town litanies of the icon of the Resurrection of Christ are taking place in Garitsa and in Potamos at 08:00 and at Koyevina Hill at 11:00.

On Easter Tuesday at18:00 the majestic ceremony of “Basmata” is taking place at the church of St.Spyridon where the holy relics of the Saint are returned to their permanent shrine in the antechamber of the church.

 


"Christos Anesti"     -      Christ is Risen!

 

 

© 2003-2010 Jonathan E Dunn. All Rights Reserved. Powered by //CWD - CorfuWebDesign