The north-east of Corfu skirts Mount Pantokrator, the highest peak on the island at 914 metres. The winding coast road offers views of some of Corfu's most stunning scenery. Tantalising glimpses of coves and beaches below and across the channel to the mainland and Albanian mountain ranges.

The summit of Mount Pantokrator is reached by a series of corkscrew bends which provide, just below the village of Spartillas, some stupendous views across Ipsos Bay to Corfu Town. The area of Spartillas has a rolling landscape of fruit trees and vineyards, where some of Corfu's finest wine is produced. Strinilas is the highest village on the island. Its small square is dominated by a centuries-old elm tree.

At the summit of the mountain is a monastery dating back to 1347 although the present church was built in the 17th century. From here, one can see the sickle outline of Corfu and, over the narrow channel, Albania and Lake Butrint. To the south, in the blue Ionian, lie Paxos and distant Kefalonia. On August 6th, the biggest festival on the island takes place here, and in the evening people climb up to the monastery from nearby villages carrying candles.

The surrounding area is a paradise for walkers. As well as the present day farming communities scattered around the mountainside, there are several abandoned villages whose residents moved back to the coast in the 20th century once the threat of pirate attacks and malaria had ceased. One such village is the Venetian village of Old Perithia, once the wealthiest village in the region, now gradually being restored and lived in again. Old Sinies is another abandoned village on the southern side of Pantokrator. Like Old Perithia, it was built as a refuge from pirate raids and abandoned when the coastline became safe.

Back on the coast road one passes through the tourist resort of Barbati and past the quieter beach of Kaminaki. Two kilometres further on is Nissaki, with a rocky cove that looks out towards Lake Butrint in Albania. Further along the coast, small roads lead down to the lovely little harbours of Agni, Kouloura and Kalami, where sailing boats tie up to enjoy the fresh fish on offer in the local tavernas. The writers Gerald and Lawrence Durrell knew this area well, and Lawrence lived in the White House at Kalami for a time. Kouloura, scarcely large enough for a handful of fishing boats and a small taverna, is one of the prettiest corners of the island. Nearby are the pretty seaside villages of Agios Stefanos and Kerasia.

The centre of this region is Kassiopi. 36 kilometres from Corfu Town and boasting a delightful harbour, it offers a great choice of dining and entertainment. The oldest fortress on the island also stands here, built by the Romans and extended by the Angevins, an indication of the strategic importance of the site. The fortress was demolished by the Venetians, and the ruins which stand today belong to the castle built later on the site. While today the town and villas surrounding the bay are filled in the peak season with visitors, the horseshoe-shaped harbour is still home to local fishermen who carry on their business in the traditional way. Nightlife is lively and the small but attractive bays make water sports popular.

Further north is the church and beach of Agios Spiridon and the Antinioti Lagoon. The lagoon covers 100 acres and provides a home for fish, mammals, amphibians, reptiles and many rare birds (96 different species have been spotted here). It is an important wetlands habitat and has been designated a protected area.